
Two years ago, sitting on a beach on the Greek island of Mykonos, I fell asleep in the warm Mediterranean sun. It was lovely, relaxing, calming. Until I woke up.
Sunburns are never pleasant and sun allergies bite the big one. Unlike any sunburn, during an allergic reaction, your skin will not only burn to a red onion like crisp, but it will swell and itch and become as hot as the surface of Mars. I know this from first hand experience, because when I woke up on that beautiful beach, an allergic reaction to the sun quickly followed. My eyes, as though trying to expel some toxic chemical, teared up and a mucus formed at my tear ducts. My throat swelled and swallowing became very difficult. Episodes of extreme fatigue washed over me every hour of my trip. My whole body was sore and I felt like an overgrown Oompahloompah. I avoided cameras.
That trip was definitely a learning experience. I learned precisely how rare aloe vera lotion is in Greece and how expensive specialized allergin soothing creams can be. I also learned that perfect health isn't part of the formula for an awesome vacation.
Though lots of lounging was done in Greece that summer (thank God), there was too much to see and do to sit around all the time. My gracious host and super cool friend filled my activities calendar with the perfect amount of interesting stuff, some of which we did together, and some that I got to do alone (fun fact: my toenail polish perfectly matched the marble of the Parthenon -- it was magical). We went on little outings to grocery stores and great auntie's house. We went to the mountains and out to the beach. We went on trains and boats. Coffee shops and clubs and we met up with a couple other Greek-Americans who spent their summers visiting the home-homeland.
On one such outing, we went to some posh club in Athens that sits on the waterfront and pumps techno out over the sea. There were three of us: me, my hostess, and one of her Greek-American buddies who also went to UVA, Harry. We danced and drank and carried on with several groups of people speaking languages I did not understand well until the wee hours of the morning. We were by no means the last to leave the place, but when we wandered back to the metro, I distinctly remember dawn quickly approaching. It was a Saturday night, so we ended up merging with the early Sunday morning church service crowd. Since it was 4 in the morning though, our car was mostly empty save for this old man who came and sat directly beside our little group.
Now, I don't speak any Greek. At all. But what happened next didn't require much translation. The old man began to mutter, as old people taking mass transportation tend to do. We thought nothing of it, until his mutter turned to yelling, and his hands began gesturing. Out of my dazed stupor, I realized that he was yelling at us! AND, he was looking at ME!!! Hang on a tic! I'm doing nothing but sitting here swollen! Is my discolored skin that insulting?! I looked to my friends with a bewildered expression. ("Wtf?") They said he was yelling about disrespect and the flats of my feet. ("Wha...?" )
Apparently, in last-generation Greece, its a serious insult to show someone the bottom of your foot. I was sitting cross-legged and, as swollen as I was, that meant that the bottom of my foot was pointing up and out rather than down and over. Oops.
Here's where it became epic: Harry, who is a dear sweet guy a few years younger than me, doesn't appear to be the heroic type. If there is a confrontation, he seems like he would be the witness hoping it would stop, rather than the initiator standing up for justice. And usually, with most guys his age, personal comfort takes priority over a damsel in distress. Even though in that particular situation I wasn't really distressed (I couldn't understand anything Old Man was saying, so how could I get upset about it?), I was getting uncomfortable. I was beginning to wonder what I would do if this guy got really out of control. Could I punch an Old Man in the face? Could I move my arm? Just as I was trying to remember what have fully functioning limbs felt like, Harry spoke up! He spoke in Greek, so I didn't understand until later what he was saying, but he looked like he was making really good points. His voice took a controlled tone of authority. His posture was straight and unflinching. It was the Young vs. the Old, David v. Goliath, Respectful Sanity up against Unreasonable Anger. Young Harry talked this guy down from Crazypants Land! The Old Man stopped his screaming, and walked away!
When all was translated later, I learned that Harry had argued that I wasn't Greek and couldn't be responsible for unknowingly insulting someone in such an obscure way. I felt protected. An unwitting foreigner understood and defended by the natives. It put a grin on my face for the rest of the day and Young Harry became my friend.
Though lots of lounging was done in Greece that summer (thank God), there was too much to see and do to sit around all the time. My gracious host and super cool friend filled my activities calendar with the perfect amount of interesting stuff, some of which we did together, and some that I got to do alone (fun fact: my toenail polish perfectly matched the marble of the Parthenon -- it was magical). We went on little outings to grocery stores and great auntie's house. We went to the mountains and out to the beach. We went on trains and boats. Coffee shops and clubs and we met up with a couple other Greek-Americans who spent their summers visiting the home-homeland.
On one such outing, we went to some posh club in Athens that sits on the waterfront and pumps techno out over the sea. There were three of us: me, my hostess, and one of her Greek-American buddies who also went to UVA, Harry. We danced and drank and carried on with several groups of people speaking languages I did not understand well until the wee hours of the morning. We were by no means the last to leave the place, but when we wandered back to the metro, I distinctly remember dawn quickly approaching. It was a Saturday night, so we ended up merging with the early Sunday morning church service crowd. Since it was 4 in the morning though, our car was mostly empty save for this old man who came and sat directly beside our little group.
Now, I don't speak any Greek. At all. But what happened next didn't require much translation. The old man began to mutter, as old people taking mass transportation tend to do. We thought nothing of it, until his mutter turned to yelling, and his hands began gesturing. Out of my dazed stupor, I realized that he was yelling at us! AND, he was looking at ME!!! Hang on a tic! I'm doing nothing but sitting here swollen! Is my discolored skin that insulting?! I looked to my friends with a bewildered expression. ("Wtf?") They said he was yelling about disrespect and the flats of my feet. ("Wha...?" )
Apparently, in last-generation Greece, its a serious insult to show someone the bottom of your foot. I was sitting cross-legged and, as swollen as I was, that meant that the bottom of my foot was pointing up and out rather than down and over. Oops.
Here's where it became epic: Harry, who is a dear sweet guy a few years younger than me, doesn't appear to be the heroic type. If there is a confrontation, he seems like he would be the witness hoping it would stop, rather than the initiator standing up for justice. And usually, with most guys his age, personal comfort takes priority over a damsel in distress. Even though in that particular situation I wasn't really distressed (I couldn't understand anything Old Man was saying, so how could I get upset about it?), I was getting uncomfortable. I was beginning to wonder what I would do if this guy got really out of control. Could I punch an Old Man in the face? Could I move my arm? Just as I was trying to remember what have fully functioning limbs felt like, Harry spoke up! He spoke in Greek, so I didn't understand until later what he was saying, but he looked like he was making really good points. His voice took a controlled tone of authority. His posture was straight and unflinching. It was the Young vs. the Old, David v. Goliath, Respectful Sanity up against Unreasonable Anger. Young Harry talked this guy down from Crazypants Land! The Old Man stopped his screaming, and walked away!
When all was translated later, I learned that Harry had argued that I wasn't Greek and couldn't be responsible for unknowingly insulting someone in such an obscure way. I felt protected. An unwitting foreigner understood and defended by the natives. It put a grin on my face for the rest of the day and Young Harry became my friend.
I've loved Greece ever since.